Day 25: Bora Bora, French Polynesia

Tuesday, January 29th, 2013

Heaven on earth is Bora Bora!  This group of islands, has a land mass which is less than its famous coral bay, in which sea life abounds.  To get around, one must take water taxis, or stay on the main island.  Karen and Jonathan had accepted an invitation to go to the St Regis with some passengers, and Barry and I had made plans to go to another island to the Hilton Bora Bora Nui Spa and Resort.  When we rounded the point, this gorgeous resort lay in front of us with several hundred overwater bungalows.  Reception is an open pavilion waterside.  The service was impeccable.  We were presented with a small glass of the sweetest pineapple juice we have ever tasted, presented with fresh flower leis of of frangipani, and given cool towels soaked in gardenia oil, to wipe off our brows.  Great start.  Then we went up to the beach and pool area, where Oliver recommended that we take a spot poolside, as he thought we would get burned by the ocean, such was the reflection from the water and sand on this hot gorgeous day.  I guess he took one look at my lily white skin and freaked out.  The staff waited on us, by name all day, and we just luxuriated in the beauty of this place, hardly believing it was real.  I said I wished I had the power to wiggle my nose and transport our whole family here with us.  There were two tiers of cascading infinity pools before  the white sand beach with crystal clear water.

There were hardly any guests there, as it is low season.  However, we did hear that the US economy has greatly affected this island as well, as there are about 6 upscale resorts , including the Club Med, which are abandoned.  Tragic.  We took the 4 pm. boat ride back just in time to catch the last tender at 4:30 pm.  We had 2 quick, but torrential downpours, while we were there.   One great little sighting - gathered at the mouth of the small harbour where the tenders came out to the ship, were about 20 or 30 sea kayaks, some with outriggers.  These local guys were riding the surf of our tender - great sport in the late afternoon sun.  We heard about all the people that swam with the sharks and sting rays, and turtles.. and loved it.  

We reluctantly left this little paradise… and wished that we could afford the average $1500 per night hotel fee to return - but were grateful to have had even the small time we had just enjoying the people and the setting of this magical place.  

We attended the HAL show which features  the very very talented group of singers and dancers who sang all the Super Groups from the 70's  onward.  

Tomorrow is our turn to attend The Captain's dinner.. theme is French formal night!

Day 24: Moorea, French Polynesia

Monday, January 27th, 2013

Today was a perfect day, not only weather wise, but in the way that Karen, Jonathan, Barry and I chose to spend it.  We got off the ship at 10 a.m. and hopped in a cab for the 7 minute ride to the Intercontinental Hotel, where we had arranged for a day pass to use the pool, and beach and have lunch.  The setting was beautiful, and there was virtually no one there, so we snagged 4 lounges beach side, and plunged into the turquoise waters.  Heaven!  We spent the day lounging, swimming,  and kayaking.  The hotel is built at the base of the mountains which rise at a steep slope, and have thatched cottages on stilts up on the mountain, overlooking the sea.  Other over water bungalows are also available.  The resort is very large and Barry and I walked around to the dolphin centre, which was closed to the "swimming with dolphin" activity, but we watched them swoop around the bay, and nearly jump out on the dock when their trainer came to feed them.  The resort also has a turtle care centre, but it was so hot and humid being  in the sun, we chose to go back and swim again.  

We had a delicious lunch at the beach bar.    Let the pictures speak for themselves.   We had yet another easy sail away party, and dinner in the Lido, where we heard about Linda and Garry's 4x4 adventure up into the mountains.  

Day 23: Papeete, Tahiti

Sunday January 26th, 2013

Today is the first of 3 days in French Polynesia.  We have been to Papeete (Pap-a- yeti) last year, and so Karen and I decided to just explore the markets and shops of the town, crossing our fingers that they would be open.  Papeete, is the capital city, and is not a very attractive place.  The island is volcanic, and a narrow strip of land is all that is between the sea and the rise of the lush mountains, so a single highway runs along the shore, and there is not much to see unless you get out of town.  Having done that last year, we chose instead to go back to this wonderful local market, which we learned opened just for the two ships in port.  One ship was a huge one, that had been responsible for leaving the gift of flu on Pitcairn, so we wanted to stay well clear of her guests!!  

The second picture below is of a chinese ship we saw over near the container port.  It sure needs some paint doesn't it?  We were told that the cruiser shown in the foreground of a couple of pictures below belongs ti a Saudi prince.

It was hot and humid, but sunny - which was the first day in weeks that they hadn't had rain.  Karen and I spent about 5 hours just wandering about, buying some of the beautiful shell jewellery and fabrics, and a great hat for me to wear in the sun.  We went to a small two story mall area, that I had discovered last year and found some great  bargains.  We noted that most of the shops were permanently shuttered and closed.  One shop keeper told us that for the last 5 years it had become almost impossible to earn a living, so depressed was the tourist industry, because of the U.S. economy.  It is also a very expensive island, even with the discounts.  We had the most delicious lunch of local shrimp and Mahi- Mahi, outside at a little cafe, then we went back to the ship to shower and change.  We elected to go to the Sail-Away party and eat casually in the Lido, instead of getting all dressed up for the dining room.  

We were really excited about our next port - Moorea- which is an unspoiled island easily visible from Papeete.  It was a VERY slow cruise overnight to Moorea.   

Days 21 and 22 At Sea in the South Pacific

Friday, January 25th, and Saturday January 26, 2013

Two long languorous days sitting on the port side of the lower promenade deck, have marked this time at sea. This year we are 4 star Mariners with HAL, which means free laundry for us, so we don't have to use the precious sea days buried in the laundromat. Instead I am taking up my knitting project, visiting with my friends, and Barry either reads or plays Scrabble against his computer. Talk about lazy. And rolling by is the magnificent Pacific Ocean, with 15,000 feet of water under our keel. Until you sail these waters you have no appreciation for the scale of this ocean, the colour of its depths, and how something so huge can be so calm.

We have enjoyed the entertainment so much this year, and as I write this, I am not sure if we saw the comedian, or the singer, (days also blend here), but now that we are on early dinner seating, we are thoroughly enjoying the length of evening we have to do things around the ship, and still get to bed at a reasonable hour. I am so well rested that it's obscene.

Day 20: Pitcairn Island, South Pacific Ocean

Thursday January 24th, 2013

Last year Pitcairn Island was also on our itinerary, but we were unable to go there as we had delays caused by weather and the need to alter course to avoid incoming storms.  This year we made it, but had another glitch.  First of all let me quote from the daily program about this infamous island, so that you have some background. 

" The Pitcairn Islands officially named the Pitcairn, Henderson, Ducie and Oeno Islands are a group of four islands in the southern Pacific Ocean that are the last remaining British overseas territory in the Pacific.  The original settlers of the Pitcairn Islands were Polynesians who appear to have lived on Pitcairn and Henderson for several centuries.  however, although archaeologists believe that Polynesians were living on Pitcairn as late as the 15th century the islands were uninhabited when they were discovered on July 3, 1967 by the crew of the British sloop HMS Swallow.  Pitcairn Island was named after Midshipman Robert Pitcairn, a fifteen-year-old crew member who was the first to sight it.  In 1790, the mutineers of HMAV Bounty and their Tahitian companions, some of whom may have been kidnapped from Tahiti, settled on Pitcairn Island and set fire to the Bounty.  The wreck is still visible underwater in Bounty Bay; the ship itself was discovered in 1957 by National Geographic explorer Luis Marden.  Although the settlers were able to survive by farming and fishings the initial period of settlement was marked by serious tensions among the settlers.  Pitcairn Island is inhabited with fewer than 60 people, from nine families, making it notable for being the least populated jurisdiction in the world (although it is not a sovereign nati).  The largest population it held was in 1937 with 233 people, but through emigration to New Zealand, the population dwindled to what it is now."

Our original plan was to do scenic cruising around the island, and to board the entire population of the island onboard the Amsterdam to sell their wares, and visit with us.  Captain Jonathan found out that 20 of the 56 people had the flu strain that is devastating North America (brought courtesy of another cruise ship 2 weeks ago), so after discussion with HAL headquarters, it was decided not to allow anybody from the island to board our ship.  Thank goodness for that wise decision as all any of us need is another flu virus circulating.  Instead the islanders would come alongside our ship to collect supplies we had bought on their behalf, as that is how they obtain goods.  Furthermore the senior staff decided to "gift" them these supplies in lieu of the revenues they had forgone by not coming on board.  We arrived at 10 am. to this small, rugged volcanic island, with sheer cliffs rising from the pounding sea, and a small harbour where the residents are able to land.  The islanders came out in their longboat and Barry got some excellent pictures of them.  They are all decedents of the original mutineers and Tahitians from the Bounty, and you can see the racial mix in their features.  

The islanders grow their own crops, and although they have a small tractor, most of the labour is manual.  The soil is rich, so they are able to grow a lot of fruit and vegetables easily, as well as sugarcane.  This cannot be easy work though as there are no vehicles except small ATVs, and only one road, on this rugged island.  The waters abound with spiny lobsters, which normally we would have taken on board ship, were it not for fear of cross contamination.   There are also several species of plants that only exist on this island and are near extinction, although we were not told the specifics of what those are.

The Amsterdam crew dressed up as pirates mingled with all of us, serving Bloody Marys as we sailed around the shore.  As we came to Christian Point, where rock outcroppings were being mercilessly pounded by the surf, there appeared on a vision that looked like hundreds of years old - a 3 mast sailing ship anchored out from shore.  This was the Picton Castle, a Canadian ship sailing out of Nova Scotia, on an 8 month trip.  It has 12 crew and 44 passengers who are training as sailors.  This amazing sight provided some great pictures.  None of us were sure we would brave sailing on this little ship in this great unpredictable Pacific Ocean.  

The rest of the day, we puttered about, getting ready for a formal  Mutiny on the Bounty dinner which proved to be a terrific evening.  After dinner, Barry and Garry decided to go to the movie which was -- Mutiny on the Bounty, and Linda, Leslie and I went to see the show - which turned out to be absolutely fantastic.  Nik Page, is a London, UK, singer who is stunningly talented, and we were so enthralled with him, that we pulled the men to the second show, and found Karen and Jonathan after their Captain's dinner to do the same.  This guy had a standing ovation.  I highly encourage you to look this fellow up…. we are buying his CD.  

Two more sea days, then we arrive in Papeete, Tahiti, Moorea, and then Bora Bora.  When we heard about the freezing weather back home, even the prospect of Tropical Cyclone Gary which is 600 miles away seemed preferable.  The weather here is perfect, and the blue, blue Pacific which goes on forever provides us with a stunning backdrop to our lounge chairs on the deck.  n

Days 18 and 19 - At Sea in the South Pacific

Tuesday January 22, 2013, and Wednesday Jan 23rd, 2013


Finally I made an appearance in public, and was greeted with great warmth and congratulations that our table was once again in full swing in the evenings. I am still eating carefully, but it is wonderful to have such great friends on board who are looking out for your welfare. We missed a formal on Sunday evening, whose theme was Flower Power, and Linda thought to have the helium balloons from our table sent to our cabin to cheer me up. Prestie, the Assistant Dining Room Manager, who we are very fond of, personally delivered them and tied them to our door handle.

Barry is feeling pretty good, and the TamiFlu seems to have stopped the flu in its tracks. We need to stock pile some of this at home I think. I am afraid we are not living the most exciting ship life right now, so the blog is a bit thin on material, but once my energy level returns, I'll be in good shape. I did manage to get a manicure which zipped me up a bit.

Day 17: Easter Island Chile

Monday January 21st, 2013

Today marked my release for the second time this cruise, from isolation, because I no longer had a fever.  I did have cabin fever after 4 straight days in bed.  I guess I have had the flu that has been rocking the rest of the world, because I have not been this sick for many years.  The doctor said that the flu shot, which I did take in November was only effective against 3 strains floating around the world, and I had obviously had one in Port Perry, albeit milder, then with an already depressed immune system from the second virus (GI ), I likely picked up one of the other hundreds somewhere in Peru.  I call this the intense weight loss program, followed by the even more intense weight loss program.  I am writing this on Thursday the 24th, and it has been a slow climb back to any energy, and I am still eating with great trepidation as the second anti-biotic seems to have upset my stomach.  The first one, I was just plain allergic to!  The bad news this morning was that Barry had begun with the little cough that had marked my flu onset, so he made a trip to the doctor, who gave him the new miracle drug Tamiflu to see if they could arrest it.  Happy to say that is working, but he is on light duty. 

Easter Island - this mystical island was on our itinerary last year, and we felt fortunate to have a chance to visit it again, because we had such a memorable time there, but alas fate would keep us both on the ship.  It was just as well, given the unbelievable conditions for the tenders to get the passengers ashore.  This little island has no docking facilities, and the shoals and rocky coastline, make for gorgeous pictures of the blue water smashing ashore, but present the need for heroics for those trying to dock even small boats.  I had very little energy, but dragged myself to the starboard side to see what was going on and nearly fell over when I saw what the crew had to contend with.  The landing chosen this year was different, but it required the tender boat drivers to go through a narrow channel of surf into a calmer bay.  There was only room for one tender at a time, and with over 800 people going ashore, this was a lengthy process.  The tide rose and got even rougher in the afternoon, and The Captain reluctantly cancelled the afternoon excursions to ensure that he could get those ashore safely back to the ship.  One of the tenders was damaged while loading passengers at the ship, by a rope that swung and broke a window.  

I did get some great shots of some Moai that were right opposite our ship, and hopefully you can see the surf where the boats were trying to navigate to shore.  On the return trips in the afternoon the waves were breaking right over the tenders, and these conditions required very skilled and able seamen. 

I have been absent the dining table since last Wednesday, and living on a fluid diet of beef broth and crackers.   Before closing I must reiterate that the medical care has been superb.  The nurses were visiting me twice daily, and calling regularly to see how I was.  The doctor was also terrific, and I feel so fortunate to have had such fine care.  I remarked that had I been home with the flu, no one would have been calling and making sure I was ok.  

Day 12 General San Martin, Peru

Again, poor readers, you will have to put up with Barry's writing as poor Jane has just come down with another flu variety and is coughing and sneezing in quarantine.

We had another early morning at the Liberador Hotel in Cusco, getting up at 4:30 AM to meet Eduardo and Hubert who would drive us to the airport where we would catch TACA flight 804 to Lima airport.

The flight was uneventful and we were met by Enrique who would drive us down the coast of Peru to meet the ship at General San Martin, near Pisco, Peru which was the Amsterdam's last port of call before setting out for Easter Island.

Since we left Lima airport about 9:30AM and we had to be at the ship before 4:30PM, we had time enough to drive through downtown Lima and see some of the sights such as the major squares. We saw the city is built on a desert, surrounded by high, sandy hills without vegetation.  This is a large city with a population of 7 million so it took quite a while to go through the city in heavy traffic.

We saw the historic section which was built to Spanish architecture with the major feature being ornate protruding balconies and elaborate scrollwork.  Soon we were on the southern outskirts when the traffic came to a standstill.   Ahead the whole highway was flooded to a depth of about 2 feet in places and some cars were stalled and being pushed through the water which was very brown. We never did find the cause of this disaster but we were considerably delayed and, once by, we started to worry about being on-time to meet the ship which certainly would NOT wait for us.   Since the next port was Easter Island, some 2400 miles to the west and accessible only through Chile at great expense, we were understandably a little paranoid about being on-time.

We had not realized that the whole trip would be a highway through a sand desert with huge dunes, some of which were hundreds of feet high.  The highway cut through huge man-made trenches in these dunes where they went across our path shoreside.  We had not realized the desperation of some of the people who had built small squatter's shacks all along the highway out of various found materials. Later we passed fields of vineyards and unmistakeable asparagus.  

We were getting quite hungry and we were wondering how we could get some decent food in such inhospitable country when we came to a town and our driver stopped at a very respectable restaurant.

By the end of lunch we did not have much time to spare as we still had over a couple of hours to go.  Our driver was asking the men at the restaurant where the cruise ship docked and nobody seemed to know, much less heard of the place called General San Martin.

We had been told that the destination was near the town of Pisco, which was the town in Peru that was hardest hit by the earthquake of 2007, with over 800 killed. There was still evidence of fallen buildings when we passed through the town headed for the oceanside to look for a large cruise ship.   When we reached the shore there was no ship in sight and our anxiety rose to new heights.  OH NO!

We asked a local police chief and he said we should drive more south so we drove many more miles to ever increasing levels of anxiety.  Someone (maybe us?) should have done more homework on the location of the cruise ship dock.  At one point we spied a distant ship on what appeared to be a far shore many miles away but, straining our eyes with the haze and distance, we did not think it was the Amsterdam.

Time was passing quickly when we finally reached a point on shore opposite the unknown cruise ship, but now we could see and recognize her lines.  It WAS the Amsterdam, but it was literally miles away and seemingly unreachable.   We pulled into one of the gates of the town's port and our driver asked how we could reach the cruise ship, to be told that we would need to hire a small boat to cross several miles of bay to reach the inaccessible ship.  We said NO to that idea and we drove further south to be told that the dock we wanted could be reached through a security gate down a newly constructed road.

We passed the security inspection with a wave of our ID cards and it was well over 12 miles around the end of the bay before the road turned to the north and headed to the distant ship.  You can imagine our relief when we reached the Amsterdam docked at such a remote  port near huge piles of long pipeline sections.  The whole port was quite new, thus explaining  why nobody knew about it.

We had time to shower before rejoining our friends, who told us of their adventures in Lima,  Pisco and a nearby marine reserve where they saw penguins, among other mini-Galapagos creatures.

That evening Jane exhibited a slight cough which was the precursor of things to come.

s to come.

Days 13, 14, 15, 15 Sea Days

The ship has had no satellite internet since we left Peru, i think because the course is such that the ships stacks are between the dish and the satellite (which is geosynchronous over South America at the Equator).

As you can tell, this is still Barry since Jane is very sick, having contracted a different flu strain back to back with the first one. Cough, fever, nose, aching all over and headache, you name it, she's got it. She has been isolated again and we will miss Easter Island as a result. Since we were there last year and had a wonderful tour we don't mind missing it this time, thank goodness. Although I am not isolated, still I am staying away from our friends on board, eating alone etc. Jane is receiving excellent care on board, with regular visits from the medical staff.

The latest bulletin as of Sunday morning is that Jane is marginally better and starting to eat, even reading the newspaper at the moment. Whew!

We always welcome sea days because there is no port to tour or excursion to take,just relax and do what you please. Both Jane and I have Kindles with multi books so reading on the deck outside our cabin is a great way to relax. The South Pacific weather has been surprisingly moderate with temps about 21degrees C and relatively calm seas. We are staying in the same time zone for this 2400+ mile leg to Easter Island since it is Chilean territory and is keeping Chile time. Once we clear the Island we will be gaining an hour almost each day. It feels great to be able to sleep in an extra hour without losing any of the day's activities.

The Pacific is HUGE. We will have sailed 4 days before reaching Easter Island, then will sail another 2 days before reaching Pitcairn Island, where we will spend the day welcoming the islanders aboard to buy their wares and talking to them. Then another 2 days before reaching Tahiti, and so onward to more South Sea islands.

Day 11, Machu Picchu - pictures 1 of 2